I sent my forks and more importantly shock over to Travis at Go-Race in the States for the full monty.
Off the top of my head, as far as the forks are concerned, they were revalved, new SFK seals, better oil in respect of quality, Wt and correct height. Springs were great for my weight, so kept the stock ones. Finally a little of Travis's suspension black magic secrets he'll never disclose...lol .
Here's my kind of review post from before.... http://wr250r-x-euro.activeboard.com/t61227303/go-race-suspension/
The forks you could make a lot better than stock in my opinion by making just a few simple cheap adjustments. Having a good quality fork oil, of 5Wt, at the correct and equal height in both forks (Yamaha factory has been known to have sent forks out with unequal oil height in the opposing fork) would make a huge difference. Particularly if the oil height did turn out to be uneven too.
If you wanted to spend only a little and do the work yourself, i'm sure the forks would massively benefit from a simple, off the shelf valve upgrade. Something like Race-techs Gold valves maybe.
Check if your own personal weight falls within the stock spring weight parameters, otherwise replace these with what is suited for you. Most people find that they are within range i think.
Then as far as clicker settings for compression and rebound. Well, I ride damn hard, particularly at the track. So i'd simply max those babies as much as possible. Make it as stiff as i can. What ever suits you, depending on how much road you do and comfort you want, against how ruff you have it on the trails. The big cheap difference will most definitely be in making sure the fork oil is correct as mentioned above.
The real suspension work that i have personally found to be absolutely essential for all that ride hard is by far the rear shock.... but that's another story .
Best of luck to you and i hope that my opinion and feelings on the WRR suspension are of a little help to you at the very least.
Paul .
Oh yeah... as a P.S. Make sure you always remember to lift the front wheel off the ground and bleed the air out of the top of your forks before you hit the track or trails. I often find the air build up to be different in each fork. It's amazing what difference it makes to performance when they're bleed equally and often. Just replace the stock screws with button bleeders like these and it's then quick and easy to do.....
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