Can't answer that. Would be interested to know when you find out. Also, how you get on with a 49 rear/stock front.
I am still on the original chain, so had to reduce the front by one tooth to reduce gearing. When the chain wears out I will revert to stock front and larger rear. By how much is still open to suggestions, hence my interest in how you get on.
If it helps... a 46T sprocket measures exactly 240mm dia (outside of teeth). I think the stock 43T rear measures 235mm (?). Not easy to measure on the bike.
Therefore, a 49T would measure 245mm, thus 10mm wider than stock. A quick look at my bike would suggest that it would fit without a problem.
I can't recall exactly where I read it Steve but on one of the forums there was a view that running a 13T rather than a 14T front sprocket caused damage to the swing arm unless the chain adjustment is spot on. However, owners seem to get away with 12T so maybe it is a fiction.
Anyways up, 13/48 has been my final choice and there is no turning back now!
The rear wheel came out OK but the chain had been joined with a rivet link so I had to grind off the pins from a link to take it apart. It was at this stage that I realised that I should have undone the sprocket nut whilst the chain and rear wheel were still fitted
Never mind, windy gun to the rescue
New front sprocket fitted and I will torque it up when the new chain and rear wheel is in.
At this point I realised that a new knobbly tyre had been fitted without a rim lock. I don't think the previous owner could have seriously laned this WRR. Soon had one fitted with a shaped washer that fits the curve of the wheel rim and a nice matching aluminium top to prevent the rim lock's stem getting rusty:
I also took the opportunity to oval the valve hole in the rim and fit a tyre valve seal to keep the water out:
That's the biggest part of the job done but I am not fitting the wheel tonight. I am going to wait until the morning to check it has kept pressure
-- Edited by WR250Rfan on Wednesday 17th of April 2013 08:36:04 AM
I am at long last setting up the WRR to go laning on and first off I need to sort out the gearing. It currently has 13/43 road gearing and, having read a lot of guff on the various forums, I think I am going for 14/49 unless anyone advises differently?
14T front to avoid the dreaded "chewing up" of the swing arm and 49T to achieve a sensible reduction in gearing with the 14T front.
I had intended 13/ 47 or 48 and wondered why you were looking at a 49 rear. What's the problem with a 13 front? What gets chewed up? I think the 12 I'm using is ok. Perhaps I'd better take a closer look!
Slight problem. I cut the chain to 110 links and, with the adjusters almost all the way in, the chain is very tight. Going to have another look this morning.
That looks like the Sandman case saver/chain guard. I bought mine direct from the guy in the USA. There's a link on the American forum to him I believe.
I like the sound of the speedo healer. Tell me more! (have seen similar things on the US forum too)
-- Edited by SteveT on Wednesday 17th of April 2013 05:43:24 PM
I have the axle up against the bump stops and I only just have enough slack
I bought some bling off of eBay a while back and got a case saver and sprocket cover which I have fitted which allows a decent view of what's going on up front. Didn't have the original wrapping so am not sure what make it is.
I am used to a front wheel mechanical drive on the TTRs and guess I am going to have to do something to get the digital speedo on the WRR reading correctly again. But I think I have something on the shelf to sort that out
I've tried 12/48, 12/49, 14/49 and finally 13/49 which I find to be the perfect balance for my local trails which can be quite technical and mostly rocky.
Just in the process of re gearing at the moment. Going for Talon 13/ 48. Very excited as i think this to be maybe one of the best performance mods to make.
The Talon 13 up front is a little tight onto the shaft and doesn't want to push home. Should i just tighten the nut to sink it back? (i'm a bit worried of the sprocket becoming stuck on there).
Also the manual states 95 Nm, is this maybe a little too much? I will intend on a dab of blue thread lock. I'll also put the stock washer/ spacer back on before the nut.
...Okay it's on! A clear head in morning along with a little more force helped.
13/ 48 works fantasticly well. Throttle not so snatchy feeling when rolling along. Slow traffic and trails now a joy...well maybe not the traffic bit, but you get it
Could hear a little buzzy vibe sound from the counter sprocket area, but think this is just the chain rolling round and maybe due to now having the Sandman Case Saver which is open, in comparison to the stock cover. I'm sure i'm worring about nothing but shall keep an eye on it.
It will be interesting to find out the new top speed so it's onto the 12 o'clock labs speedo healer next.
One of the purposes of the standard Yamaha sprocket cover is (I believe) to reduce the "drive by" noise level. Mad US regulations I expect. Mine was noisier too with the Sandman case saver, but much easier to clean the mud out.
Speaking of which.... your bike still looks far too clean. Get out there and get it dirty! And post some photos to prove it!
...Superb. That's great to hear re: the Sandman. Thanks Steve. I couldn't careless about more noise in volume respects. It's if the noise were to be a wearing or damaging sound that i start worrying. Thanks for putting my mind at rest.
Was looking very clean in the last picture. I had actually just spanked it with in an inch of it's life. The hose is just about still in the background. That being said, you have inspired me as we all like a good dirty picture too. So it's off to investigate some new lanes around me today and see if i can maybe put that right.
...yours certainly was having a good day out. Loving the christmassy green tassels caught up around the right peg. Get stuck in to nature!
Hi I have bought a 45t rear sprocket and want to use it with standard front sprocket I have also bought a 110 link renthal chain is this long enough for this setup also when I fit these does anyone know roughly what speedo wil show ie will it show faster or slower speed so I know what speed to aim for in 30 zone ect
110 link sounds about right as i'm sure i'm using 112 link for my 48t....Brian might be able to advise you a little more here.
Not sure about guessing the out come of your speed afterwards as i use a 12 o'clock labs speedo healer to correct things. Tottally TTR's sell them for the WR at just under 60 quid and are very quick and easy to install.
This following website was of great use to me when i changed my sprockets and tyres. I could enter the stock, current and future custom information, then compare the outcomes against each other at the quick click of a button........
http://www.gearingcommander.com/
When setting up the speedo healer, some people use the online calculator from 12 o'clock labs. This link might help you in understanding how much percentage out your adjustments will make you compared to the stock set up.
http://www.12oclocklabs.com/sdrd_calc.htm
Hope that's a little help for you until someone else chimes in at least.
hi - I run a 48T rear sprocket and have to adjust speedo by -14.7% on "healer" so I guess your speedo will over-read by ~10% depending on diameter of rear tyre........